Or other DTC errors, about power lost to many places.Sure, you could grab your cell phone and call a mechanic at the first sign of car trouble, or you could become self-reliant by buying a couple of things that can get you up and running almost as quickly as you were stopped. Oh my, the OBD2 scan tool says my ALternator is off line. The old jeeps love to kill batteries, with old DC generators. Like, oh crud, it idles a 500! (that be it) Tech, works best, he /she sees all this in 5 min flat. That is why getting a car with hands on service by a real ASE See this, the alternator goes off line below that much.Īnd can drain a battery fast deep in the city at infinite red lights Like the engine will not idle at 800 rpm or more. If low, the alternator system (charge) is failingĪt no time did i say any part was bad or to buy them. dark current)Ĭheck for 13.3 to 15vdc, running, engine. So if it drains over night check for lamps stuck on.(aka. We can find out which it is, with a $10 DMM meter at walmart If the battery goes dead parked, that means you have phantom drain. If it goes dead moving the alternator /gen system is failing. No person can help lacking that critical fact, Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.Īs you can see in the last Diagram on this Link: there are three (3) Bolts for the FAN Belt that must be loosened inorder to successfully remove this Belt While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.Į. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.ĭ. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys.over, under, left right etc.Ĭ. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.ī. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:Ī. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.ģ. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:ġ. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering. I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.ĬLICKon the following LINK. I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months. I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions. My sincere apologies for the delayed response. SOURCE: need to remove the serpentine and drive belts on a Now you/they narrowed it down or isolated the circuit causing the problem. Mark that one down, pull the fuse back out, light off, now do the rest that you haven't checked yet, just to see if there is more than one draw causing the problem, if there is, mark it down, pull it out & continue on until all done. If it goes out, you start putting them back in one at a time, and when the light comes back on bright, you found the circuit. When you have a real hard one to narrow down, you make sure you know where they all go back to, whether by your map at fuse box, or your own notes, and you pull them all out, and light should go out for sure, if not, there is another circuit or panel, or relay drawing the current. All you do is pull the fuses one at a time, if light goes out, or dim's you've found a draw. Your going to have some, just from your radio memory alone, but now comes the fun part. It will be brighter, the more draw there is. If that test light, lights up, there is a draw. Now connect your negative back up to the battery as it was. Take a 12 volt test light & secure one end to the + clamp or connector, and the other end to the battery+ post. With that said, when all else fails, you simply remove negative connection off battery first, then positive. There is obviously a draw from somewhere, and if your dealer doesn't have a mechanic who knows how to narrow it down to the circuit causing the problem, then I'd question there ability. SOURCE: battery goes dead on 2004 pacifica
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